Carles Baqués has been working for the Vidal Group for 44 years, all his work experience has been in the company. He has dedicated himself to tailoring and is expert in costumes and ceremony complements. Today tells us which are the trends of the sector and clarifies when you have to take what, the eternal question when going invited to a category event like a wedding or an special dinner.
• Most men have heard about the types of suits most commonly used, but few know for sure what the protocol says. What you can tell us?
There are many types of suits, in Asia for example they use one with a “mao” neck, but I speak of those who have the most exit here:
Jack we could consider is the most elegant and is ideal for day ceremonies. It is composed of the levite, the part that most attracts attention, and should always be accompanied by a vest and trousers, both preferably striped. As for the shirt and tie, you have to choose the ones with clear and smooth colors, to contrast with the levite.
The double-button suits overlap part of the jacket over the chest, and are fastened with two parallel rows of buttons. However, only one of the rows is functional, the other is only decorative. Inside the jacket we find a button that helps to fit the body better.
The Frac is the most formal suit for the night celebrations and is equivalent to the day jacket. It is formed by a black frock coat with silk inserts and has an open tail. On the outside we find one or two rows of buttons, which are basically decorative. The flock should always be accompanied by a silk scarf, the trousers are without tweezers, the vest is ivory and the white shirt with a diplomatic collar the same as the bow tie.
The tuxedo is the piece that we have to wear to attend an event at night, but does not reach the level of ceremony that represent the tail and jacket. The tuxedo is composed of the jacket, trousers, bow tie, waistcoat and bow tie, although it is best to use a bow tie.
Finally we find the executive suit, the typical one that all the men have in some corner of their closet and is formed by a trousers, a jacket and sometimes also combines a vest. The most common colors are gray and navy blue, although each time they take more.
- Fashion progresses very fast and every year new trends appear and we see it on the street, but what are the novelties in suits?
Although there is a protocol, more and more the groom will make the suits to their liking, and therefore also choose if they wear a tie or bow tie based on their enthusiasm. The guys who normally go every day with a suit to work are looking for something that differs a little from what the work uniform is for them, while those who are not used to wear a costume habitually, an executive suit already seems sufficient for the wedding day. And it must be said that these seconds are the majority!
This year the grooms choose many suits with fantasy, is the maximum tendency. It is usually looked for a more striking jacket and is combined with a plain trousers. The navy color is the novelty of this year, although black is still highly sought after.
Another comming trend is the soft tones, such as light gray and beige, which link more with the current fashion of rustic and casual weddings. Also a few years ago the slim fit line triumphed, with slimmer blazers and narrower pants. Young men prefer a tight cut and shorter brazers.
- The shirt and the jacket are essential parts of any suit, but many men often get hot in the events to comply with the protocol. Does a man’s suit change much for a ceremony in winter or summer?
Both in winter and in summer the colors and styles are usually the same, the fabrics change a little because in summer are fresher, but the cuts and the protocol is the same. It is true that many men don’t like the suit for this reason and also usually the majority of ceremonies are concentrated in times of heat. Sometimes to look great you have to suffer!
- To finish, tell us about twins, an elegant and essential complement for any boyfriend. What kind of shirts do they wear?
The twins are one of the jewels in the men’s wardrobe. Since the Middle Ages they are used, and little by little have been taking value and prestige. At the moment they are pretty shirts with double fist, although also to a normal shirt you can do the two buttonhole to show them. Today the twins are almost exclusively for the groom, but until a few years ago they still saw strength in executive suites. The casual style is gaining more ground in men’s fashion and this is evident in all levels.